Exploring the Galapagos Islands

Hello Friends,

At the time of our last blog entry James was about to join us at the animal rescue centre here in Ecuador. Following detailed directions he walked up the path at Merazonia into our happy arms right on schedule!

Saying goodbye at Merazonia

After two weeks of hard work at the animal rescue centre we took off from Quito for 3 weeks on the Galapagos Islands. After crossing the 1000 kms from the coast of Ecuador, we couldn’t believe that we were actually about to arrive in this mystical land that we’d read so much about and seen in documentaries.

In order to protect the islands, travellers to the Galapagos who have not pre-arranged boat tours must be based out of three towns.  So immediately after our plane landed in what we had pictured as an untouched natural paradise, we ended up in a town of 30,000 people. Even having read about this before hand, it was a shock to see so much habitation. As much as 97% of the Galapagos is a National Park.  Access to the islands is highly controlled, and visits anywhere within the National Park can only be done as part of group with a Guide.

Marine Iguanas basking on lava rocks

On our second day, a two hour roller coaster ride in a boat took us to a quieter town of 3,000 on another island. As we settled into our great little room looking out over the intensly blue water, we eased into Galapagos time. The thrill of walking down the beach and seeing our first Marine Iguanas basking on the lava rocks, watching the amazing Blue Footed Boobies torpedo into the water at 130 km/hr. and Black Tip sharks circling schools of fish, made us feel that we’d really arrived.

Sun bathing with baby sea lion

There is something wonderful about gathering snorkel gear and heading down to the warf to swim among tiny penguins (35 cm) and sea lions who still have only curiosity about humans and no fear. What really surprised us was how much of the animal life we saw was in the sea. Snorkeling was as much a part of our day as going for walks. Swimming with sea lions, giant sea turtles, sharks, marine iguanas feeding under water, and a myriad of tropical fish is as beautiful in real life as in those BBC documentaries!

Chatting with giant Land Tortoises

On our walks we visited a few sites where giant land tortoises still survive in the wild. This wonderous, lumbering animal was almost driven to extinction by sailors who took them on board as food for long sea voyages. It wasn’t until they were almost eliminated that the Charles Darwin Research Centre and the Galapagos National Park mounted an intense captive breeding program in order to replenish their numbers.

Blue Footed Boobies (Courting)

Looking at the geology of these young volcanic islands, identifying the flora and fauna as we moved from place to place, was a big thrill. One of the highlights of our time on the Galapagos was a four day boat tour we took to the southern islands. Because there are no predators, many birds have their nests right on the ground. We watched the courtship dances of Albatross, and the Blue Footed Boobies from a few feet away, with the birds completely undisturbed by our presence.

Pancho the Sea Lion waiting for a hand-out at the fish market

The experience of the Galapagos Islands as a pristine natural paradise, as well as spending time in towns really gave us a sense of two different worlds. Walking down to the fisherman’s warf to buy our Albacore tuna or Wahoo fish for supper, we’d arrive to find sea lions standing on their back flippers waiting for a fish treat and pelicans and marine iguanas sharing space with the fisherman. Only on the Galapagos!

Locals, who have lived on the islands for several generations, told us stories of a time in the not too distant past (35 years ago) when the only contact with the outside world was a supply ship which would arrive every 6 months from the mainland. The few residents on the islands where mostly self sufficient. Today there are 5 jets a day that bring tourists and supplies. The Ecuadorian government and people are caught in the difficult place of trying to manage growth in a way that protects this amazing and unique environment.

This will be our last blog. We’ll be back in Vancouver in less than a week and can’t wait to see all of you again!